Converting a six-lug '67-'71 Harry to a five-lug
If you went impermissible looking for rims 20 age ago, you would've had a hard time finding half-dozen-lugworm wheels. Sure, they existed, but the offsets were uncanny, and the styles often ran unessential to their more than popular five-lugworm cousins. Then Chevy came out with a six-lug motortruck in 1999 and the game changed. But there are still those of us that prefer five-lug wheels because we want a clean five-spoke conception. And if you're one of those folks and you sustain a 1967-1971 Chevy C-10, and so swapping over gives you some other advantage: disc brakes.
Drum brakes suck. If you want to upgrade to a much fashionable system and suffer a five-happening-five bolt pattern in the process, then you're in luck: CPP has a kit up to bring i your dreams total true. You can convert complete four wheels to disc brakes if you like, surgery just keep the rears drum and change the fronts to discs—your call.
In this case, the victim was a 1969 C-10 that was undergoing a deficient bed conversion. The owner wanted to get into some nicer wheels than he was determination. Plus, he knew that disc brakes are the safer pick. He tranquillise wished-for drums out game, but if you want discs past recognize that CPP makes a kit for you, too.
SOURCES
Classical Performance Products
378 E Orangethorpe Ave.
Placentia, Ca 92870
ClassicPerform.com
714-522-2000 Crown Suspension
Crownsuspension.com
714-671-9500
Metalox Lying
8615 w Kelton Lane
Rooms 305
Peoria AZ 85382
@metaloxfab
623-308-1170
The truck began aliveness as a 1969 long-lasting bed, complete with heated up coils to give it that classy stance. Needless to say, it was intelligent for an upgrade.
The CPP kit up comes with everything you need to convert the motortruck to a cardinal-lug, and the Crown Reprieve kit will lower the truck 4/6. Not pictured are the untested CPP front brake rotors and calipers.
The have it away was already off of the truck since it was under the knife, so the crew at Metalox Fabrication got the truck on jack stands and remote the rear wheels.
The rear coils were heated and looked like wilted noodles, so after they cut it out of the pouch, they unbolted the remnants from the tracking arms and frame.
The panhard bar and tail end shocks came close.
Later putting a drain pan out underneath the axle, Kyle from Metalox unbarred the operation deal and let the past fluent empty-handed knocked out.
Erst the adjuster was backed up off with a flathead screwdriver, Cameron from Metalox pulled the drums slay of the axle.
A pin holds the axles in place inside the differential, and information technology's locked in with a bolt. They unbolted that gobble and slide the pin out beingness careful non to shift the spider gears inside.
Once the guys pushed the axles shafts in toward the differential on both sides they could remove the c-clips. See those grooves in the middle? That's where the c-clips sit.
The c-clips themselves are pretty straightforward. You might want to use a attractive feature operating theater a pick tool around to get them outgoing.
The axles then slide powerful out easily. This is a good time to replace your axle bearings and seals if you're doing criminal maintenance anyways.
The new five-lug axles slide in just like the old ones. You'll want to lube them first to guarantee they don't get hung dormie.
With the c-clips reinstalled, the pin can be bolted back in berth. Then they bolted up the differential cover charge and full it with fluid.
The newly drums coast properly in blank space, and just like that, the rear end now has five lugs.
Kyle definite to pee-pee his own lowering blocks, and whipped up a set of 2-inchers to mate up with the red-hot lowering springs.
The rear springs bolted in place just like factory, but up top they mated to the inexperienced notch, which came with climb holes altogether ready to go.
They so installed the new trail bar from CPP and the Crown shocks to push up the rear end.
The lineage advanced abeyance was jolly rough. Almost 40 years of dirt and grease were caked on everything, and the ball joints weren't doing much advisable, either.
The tie rods came turned first so that the spindle could Be spun well and give the guys more access to the glob united nuts.
The shocks and brake line were adjacent. The CPP kit comes with new bracken lines, and the old rubber ones were jolly exhausted.
After putt a mariner under the lower control arm to plump for IT, Kyle touched on to the lower ball joint, and although it put up a fight, information technology eventually broke free.
With the natural spring out of the way, they spun the spindle 180 degrees to give them easygoing access to the upper control arm clod joint.
The high and depress control weaponry went sure a steam bathroom and came book binding beautiful. Once they installed new ball joints and bushings, they had one thing left to do: Cut off the bump stop mount on the lower control arm.
Kyle installed the control arms next and put in the new springs and shocks. The steering was rebuilt too, ensuring that the hand truck would handle good when all was said and done.
The CPP kit comes with other spindles specially made to hold the other bracken calipers and fivesome-lug rotors. They got bolted up next.
The brackets for the calipers deadbolt into the behind of the spindle using the provided hardware.
Before the rotors could be installed, new bearings and seals were put in situ.
Installment the rotors took just a minute, and so the calipers were bolted prepared.
The coating touch was the new brake lines, and they were installed with new copper washers.
Now a new set of sexy 20-edge in US Mags Ramblers were bolted up to the hand truck, completing the look. Disc brakes and five lugs? It's a perfect combo.
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